Kabul Diaries-II

I take pictures of the street corner where Najibullah, left by the Soviets as totem ruler of Kabul was hanged by the Taliban along with his five other generals. He was an Indian ally. The Americans own this country now. Young brash GIs drive the Humvees on Kabul streets with a swagger as if they are the rulers of the land and not on some assignment. These are clearly occupation forces. When their bunker cars move, most Afghans prefer to take their vehicles off the road. Ashraf explains that this is for their own safety, as American assets are targets of Taliban suicide bombings.

***

In the slow traffic I hear the next car blaring Dhan-te-nan on the newly minted FM radio Kabul. Ashraf’s car too has FM. The RJ speaks in Darri and a song goes … door door… I tell Ashraf the song is about longing of a lover for his beloved. Ashraf smirks in approval as I boast that I understand Darri. It’s actually the mix of Persian that’s a give away. As we park, the car that zips past us is playing dhan-te-nan. The number is topping all the charts here it seems.

***

Afghans are playing cricket! Am told that they would be having their own team by the next T-20 world cup. Men woefully outnumber women on the streets, obviously. But at the main bazar I bump into a jeans clad tom-boyish woman, a Karzai enthusiast who is even ready to speak before camera. Makes my day. Also the fact that this presidential election has two women candidates - Shahla Atta and Farzan Fana - in the ring. Daring. Welcome.

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Outside the Serena hotel I spot one man carrying a football in a bag. Good signs in an otherwise bleak scene overall. It would rate as a big achievement given that all sport was banned under Taliban. Things are claerly changing. First FM radio, then cricket, and now football. If nothing else, perhaps these could wean the next generation of Afghans away from the Gun. But it's too much of optimism I guess. Ashraf has been a London cabby for seven years, and might vote for Karzai too, but fondly remembers the Taliban days of hangings and floggings as being low on crime!

***

Yet, saying that options of public entertainment are limited would be an understatement. The lone cinema hall in Kabul is playing some 1990's Hindi flick I can't even identify. Ashraf intervenes to say its better at their homes with cable tv post-Taliban. The K-serials are a hit, as are Sachin Tendulkar and Shah Rukh Khan. Obviously.




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The manager at Hotel Kabul Gold Star is from Kerala. Its interesting how little extra money makes him justify his dangerous existence in this war zone. The owner is a rich Afghan who himself lives in Dubai. Lenesh himself has worked all across Middle East in hospitality industry for over a decade now and intends to be back in God’s Own Country forever once his kids’ education is over and all expenses taken care off. I go for breakfast. As I collect my omlette, behind the counter the two male waiters kiss. Wallah, ye tum kya karti? It’s very casual. As the scene continues I act as if it’s not being noticed. The two vamooze into the kitchen. Now the counter is empty for me to choose all that I can from the spread.