Goa Diary


If one thought some profound business of politics happens at a national party’s national executive, here are some gems from chats with top leaders in the BJP. Mind you, very top so take it seriously: Ninety per cent speeches are repetitive…yawn…so what if only top leaders speak. Ninety per cent attendance is good…so what if those missing include L K Advani, Uma Bharti, Yashwant Sinha, Jaswant Singh, Shatrughan Sinha. One leader is so bored inside that he prefers to read on i-pad than focus on the proceedings. In his words he is physically present, but mentally absent. Conclusion: video conferencing would be better. Well, going by illnesses, it might become the norm.

***

You can not miss him. Not because he looms larger than life, but for his contrariness. Goa Chief Minister Manohar Parrikar presents a refreshing change for a politician. No commandos, no hang ups. Have heard the stories of his aam aadmi-ness. Like he flies cattle class, goes to buy fish on his scooter even now. And then I get to see it with my own eyes. He has come to the airport to receive his party's leaders. His motorcade is only of two cars, but the one for other VIPs creates a commotion at the Airport. Unassuming Parrikar gets down and helps the vehicles move back and forth. No wonder even my Muslim driver Shabbir has a sense of ownership over his CM.

***


Goans, much like our Sorathias, love easy life. The day starts not before 10 am, and then shuts down for an afternoon siesta. Except for the tourism industry they call it a day early as well. In an idea of the kind of weighty issues Goa Ministers must tackle, they are chief guests at cooking contests. Here they make policy announcements like culinary skills need to be improved, err further? Mushrooming casinos show the premium on good life. There are big ads in papers saying Goa against Casinos, but unperturbed, government has brought in a new legislation for even bigger ones! Above, video of a spice plantation.

***

Shabbir tells of how a good numbers preferred to retain their Portugese passports and have in fact migrated, leaving behind their costly real estate, transfer of which is governed by State law. All of it is heritage now lining the uptown Miramar Road. In fact, citizenship is still an issue in Goa. There is a writ pending in the Panaji bench of the Bombay High Court against hundreds of top government officials, including legislators, against their dual citizenship Interestingly, though Indian law does not allow it, the present Goa government is game for it. I ask Manohar Parrikar himself in the hotel lobby while going through the newspaper and he laughs saying he too was born a Portugese citizen! Left, Basilica of Bom Jesus, UN World Heritage.

***

Goa had a culture of bull fights. Called dhirios in Konkani, the traditional sport was banned in 1998, but can still be seen on the sly, particularly in the south. A section of Goans wants it to be revived and a campaign is building up in support. The bulls fight anyway during their mating season, the argument goes. South Goa MP Francisco Sardinha is for it, one of his supporters have filed a petition in court recently.

***

Much of Catholic understanding among Indians is Goan, thanks to Bollywood. On the ground the place is as syncretic as one can get. Two examples of Hindu influence: use of Hindu temple style garlands to adorn deities in churches, and roadside religiosity with crosses put up like Hindu shrines. Extending the example of Goan syncretism is the mosque by Adil Shah. Its architecture (right) would easily pass off as Hindu if one is specifically not told that it’s a mosque. Goa is the only State of India that has successfully running common civil code. Shabbir does not mind. He feels it to be more of an enabler in Goa’s good communal relations than a differentiator. May his tribe increase.

***

Beaches and football in many ways define Goa. So not unnatural to spot football on the beach. We might not hear a lot of the Salgaokars and the Dempos in the post-Doordarshan era but football is alive, and well, kicking in Goa. Mercifully, cricket can take a back seat. After a piece-to-camera at the Miramar beach I join in a bunch of youngsters. I have my own football story, but shall keep it for a later post.